How-to: Remove the Gauge Cluster and Install Reverse LCD's - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
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How-to: Remove the Gauge Cluster and Install Reverse LCD's

Tonight I decided to change the LCD screens in my dash cluster. I recently swapped white leds into the cluster and the screens are WAY too bright. I couldn't find a how-to on here for the cluster removal, so I took a few pics along the way. One of the nice things about this....all of the screws you take out are the same. you don't have to worry about keeping them separate.

tools needed to remove the cluster
- phillips screwdriver
- patience

1) remove the drivers side kick panel. It just pulls out from the side of the truck. I just pulled mine out a little since you don't need to remove the whole thing.


2) remove the trim piece directly above the kick panel. It just pulls out. I also pulled the weatherstripping away to get a better look at it.


3) remove the lower dash piece. There are 2 screws at the bottom, one on each side of the steering wheel. Pull the lower dash piece away completely. I KNOW, I still need loom up the wires in this pic.


4) remove the a pillar handle. pop the caps off each end and unscrew. the screws don't come out of the handle completely.


5) remove the a pillar. it just pulls away like the kick panel did.

6) remove the trim ring around the ignition. it just pops off


7) remove the upper dash piece. there are 3 screws, one on each side of the steering wheel, and one on the left side near the door. Lower your steering wheel to the lowest position. Pull out and up and lift the upper dash away.

8) remove the 4 screws around the gauge cluster. Unclip the cluster from the harness and you're done!

Click HERE to Ride the Short Bus - XBL: Tom Brunansky
Quote:
Originally Posted by equinox764 View Post
i love how at the GPAX mod days our rigs (speaking about ROOK) were equal sliders, spacers aal, fangars light bars, pio dvd headunits, etc... now your truck has just launched into space and my truck is at a drive up bank trying to order a hotdog because he cannot read.

Last edited by Deltaphi216; 01-28-2010 at 03:32 AM.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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Tools needed to swap the LCD to negative.
- polarized film ($10+shipping purchased from here http://store.garage1217.com/polarized-film.html ) the small is PLENTY of film
- straight slot screwdriver (to get the cluster open)
- fork (for removing the needles)
- Camera or tape and a felt pen (for marking the position of the needles BEFORE you remove them)
- razor blade (to peel the old film off)
- scissors (u gotta cut the film, duh)
- rubbing alcohol or googone (to get old film residue off)

1) open up gauge cluster. there are 6 tabs (the black ones in the pic) around the outside of the cluster. they are a pain in the dumper, but will come open eventually. I ended up breaking 1 of them. you will need to either peel the factory security sticker off, or cut it. some people have said that theirs just peeled back no problem but mine ripped in half. oh well. once the tabs are open, remove the front of the cluster. DON'T LOSE THE TRIP COMPUTER PIN! it will probably fall out.


2) Mark your gauge positions. this is EXTREMELY important! Once you pull the needles off, you have to put them back on EXACTLY where they were before otherwise your gauges won't be accurate. you can use a piece of blue painters tape/masking tape and a felt tip marker OR you can just take a close up pic of each one like this.


3) remove the needles. Be careful with this one and GO SLOW! you don't want to break one of these, they are VERY fragile. I actually used a fork underneath the base of the needle and just slowly pried them up. it will take some effort but they pop STRAIGHT up.


4) remove the LCD screens. very easy, just loosen the tiny clips and pull straight up. be careful with the pins. they are also very fragile.


5) remove the polarized film already on the LCD's. just use a razor and peel from a corner. go slow and easy like you are peeling off a window sticker.


6) clean the LCD. i used googone but I have heard that rubbing alcohol works best.

7) cut the new polarized film. measure it out to fit just like the old one did. here are 2 pics of the same film. one is just turned 90 degrees.



8) apply the sticky side of the film onto the LCD. Try to keep the air bubbles out like if you were putting a screen protector on your phone.

9) replace completed LCD back into cluster. Again, be careful with the pins!


10) do the other side.


11) put everything back together! you might want to clean the inside of the clear cover of the cluster. Mine had dust in it. Make sure you don't leave any fingerprints in there either, otherwise it will drive you street rat crazy.

12) enjoy your new custom LCD's!

BEFORE

lights on

truck running

Click HERE to Ride the Short Bus - XBL: Tom Brunansky
Quote:
Originally Posted by equinox764 View Post
i love how at the GPAX mod days our rigs (speaking about ROOK) were equal sliders, spacers aal, fangars light bars, pio dvd headunits, etc... now your truck has just launched into space and my truck is at a drive up bank trying to order a hotdog because he cannot read.

Last edited by Deltaphi216; 01-28-2010 at 04:00 AM.
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 03:55 AM
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 04:10 AM
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dang!! looks great!!
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 10:21 AM
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nice looks clean.

noticed a bit of surface rust there behind the cluster. is this normal? i just changed out my head unit and saw some of the same, got me a bit worried.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 10:31 AM
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Holy crap you are brave! Thanks for the how to
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 10:38 AM
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 10:39 AM
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 11:38 AM
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Noice!

You got stones man. I won't be trying anything like that 'til she's paid for.

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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the compliments! This was no big deal after the led swap. that took some stones! as for the surface rust, that's no big deal. all of the metal behind the dash has it.

Click HERE to Ride the Short Bus - XBL: Tom Brunansky
Quote:
Originally Posted by equinox764 View Post
i love how at the GPAX mod days our rigs (speaking about ROOK) were equal sliders, spacers aal, fangars light bars, pio dvd headunits, etc... now your truck has just launched into space and my truck is at a drive up bank trying to order a hotdog because he cannot read.
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