Hi all. Everything lined up today for my fuel sending unit (FSE) replacement. I am going to try my hand at my first how to. I took a bunch of pics, but probably not enough...we shall see. The pics below are thumbnails...hope that works.
The stars aligned: Free afternoon, very nice day in the 40's for a Utah Winter, and my gas tank was all but empty except for fumes. My 17 year old and I thought we either go test drive a new RT challenger or do the FSU...the FSU won out. Lets see if I link the pics correctly.
There are several decent threads out there on this repair...I wanted to add to the list. This repair is totally doable for a someone who has basic mechanical skills and tools. I have read that it will only take 30 minutes...maybe if you have done it a few times. It took me 2.5-3.0 hours, which may have been long, but I took my time...but it will likely take you a couple of hours. Plan an afternoon so you won't be rushed.
Hopefully this will demystify this for the group. ****IF YOU FIND ERRORS OR SOMETHING I CAN CLEAN UP, LET ME KNOW...thanks in advance****
Some prep thoughts:
a. You can do this alone, but it is easier with a helper.
b. I used three jack stands...one to hold the rear axle, and two to balance the gas tank at different intervals
c. You will be very happy if you have a very empty tank.
Fuel sending unit part# 1 x SENDER UNIT-FUEL GAUGE (25060-ZS00A) = $72.84
Gasket 1 x PACKING-FU (17342-EA000) = $11.79
Both from Courtesy Nissan online. Someone posted cheaper prices. Check this thread: Fuel Sending Unit
Here is my photobucket link with all pics: http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s...ending%20Unit/
pics are not in the correct order.
Here is the repair:
Step 1: pull the fuel pump fuse and run the truck until it dies. This is the fuse block under the hood. Also, pulling the fuse. See the diagram under the fuse block cover. The fuse is a 15 amp, in the middle top row. Undo the negative ground on your battery...you will be removing some electrical connections.
Pulling the fuel pump fuse:
Negative batter cable removed. Do it to be safe:
Step 2: Chock front tires, loosen driver's side rear lug nuts, jack up vehicle from rear, and place a jack stand under driver's side rear axle. Remove tire for better access:
17 year old helper Nate my son...got to give some credit...he was a great help.
Step 3: Pull fuel tank skid plate. There are four bolts, 12mm. Loosen the bolts, have your helper or jack stands handy. You will need to wrestle the rear mounts for the skid a bit...not bad, but getting it past the leaf spring and drive shaft takes a little bit of squeezing. I didn't take any pics of this...pretty self explanatory.
Step 4: Remove the filler tube. You will see it from the wheel well. There is a normal hose clamp, with a 10mm nut on it. Loosen this up a bit, then simply twist the hose until it slides off. Next, remove the small fuel line quick disconnect, and the larger one as well.
Filler tube removal -
Small and larger fuel lines removal - Both are quick disconnects, but different types. You will do these before dropping the tank (before removing tank straps)
Step 5: Place two jack stands about 6 inches under front and rear of tank. remove three bolts holding straps in place. The rear will have one bolt and a swivel. The swivel is accessible near the wheel well. I did not take pics of this as it is pretty self explanatory. Gently ease each side down onto the jack stands. This will give you access to top of the gas tank, but you will not be ready to drop the tank on the ground, as there is a wire clip / plug to remove first. The bolts are tight, so if you have a breaker bar, use it. They aren't massively tight, but take a little tug to get loose. It looks like they may have had some Locktite on them?
Step 6: Disconnect wire plug from the top of the fuel tank. This will let you drop the tank all the say to the ground. For the wire clip, you need to get a small screw driver in to the opening at the top front...gently pry up and slide the clip off of the tank connection. Disconnect the electrical connection first, then the tank will drop to the ground...you can then remove the small fuel line if you want.
Here are the small fuel line and the electrical connector:
Step 7: Clean the top of the tank. It will be quite dirty. You don't want anything falling into the tank when you pull the fuel pump out. Here is the tank on the ground:
Small fuel line still attached:
Once you have the tank on the ground, I would recommend removing the small fuel line. Easy to do. You will need to have a catch can ready as fuel will shoot out. Removing will allow you to have better access for removing the fuel pump. I did read where someone did not remove the fuel line. Your call, and regardless some fuel will shoot out until you get the line into the catch can. Me? I shot fuel all over the top of the gas tank and realized I needed the catch can. I plugged the line with my finger and my helper grabbed the can.
Step 8: Remove the lock ring from the tank. Mark the location of the ring and top of fuel pump in relation to the fuel tank. Also note the lock nut / ring is fully twisted on, with the tabs on the tank touching the lock nut / ring. You will need to ensure you get it back on just like it came off, including tightness of the ring.
You can buy an expensive tool to twist the lock nut / ring off and on, or do what I did and use a big screw driver and hammer. It comes off pretty easy. Note in the following picture that the small fuel line is disconnected. The larger fuel line is disconnected at the other end, not in the pic. I disconnected the other end from the wheel well...see that step above in step 4.
Once you have the ring off, pull the pump out. Here is the tank fully out, pump out, and the old o-ring / gasket still attached. I looked in and can't figure out how I didn't run out of gas!!!!! Empty empty empty.
Another shot of the small fuel line off. Note the inner circle shows the quick disconnect tabs. Also see the other red circle showing the lock nut / ring fully twisted on.
Step 8: After you have removed the fuel pump, let it drain a bit into the tank. Lay it on some newspaper, with the FSU side up. Take note of the FSU, and wires, including routing as they are on the fuel pump. You will remove the brown electrical plug, unclip the black wire thing at the bottom, and push in a small tab on the FSU itself to slide the FSU off of the pump. See the pic below with that small tab. Here are a series of pics of the fuel pump, FSU, small tab, etc.:
Fuel pump with FSU attached as it came out of the tank:
Here is the small tab you need to push in to slide the FSU off of the fuel pump. Hard to see..pretty small.
Another shot of the fuel pump:
New parts ready to go on:
Be sure to replace the gasket / o-ring. Clean the o-ring surface...use your shop vac to keep any crap from falling into the tank. Keep fuel off of the gasket.
Step 9: Time to put it all back together. Everything goes back on in reverse, and reverse order.
a. Replace the FSU on the pump. Remember to replace it all as it came off.
b. Place new gasket / o-ring on the tank.
c. Slide the fuel pump back into the tank. Ensure the plastic pieces of the fuel pump are flush. Also, use your marks from prior to removal to ensure you are lining up correctly.
d. Slide the lock nut / ring on. A second set of hands are helpful here to push down on the lock nut. Tap the ring back on, spinning it on with the screwdriver and hammer...make sure you fully engage it!!!!
e. Reconnect the small fuel line quick disconnect. You will feel it snap back on.
f. Lift the tank back up and rest on the jack stands. If you disconnected the larger fuel line at the tank, reconnect it...click it is on. Then reconnect the electrical...click too. Check to make sure none of the connections will pull apart.
g. Make sure the small fuel line slides down the side of the tank where there is room for it to go. I read on another thread that someone pinched theirs between the tank and frame. Hard to describe, but you will see how it should go.
h. Lift the tank into place on one end and reattach the tank strap. Do the other side. Torque to 32 ft pounds, per the service manual.
i. you can now reattach the three lines from the wheel well. Large filler line, small line, and medium line. The large line uses the hose clamp and the others use quick disconnects. Remember these two pictures?
j. I had to go buy a 5-gallon gas can of gas to make sure I had enough fuel to start and test. Replace your negative batter cable and the fuse. Start your truck. Look for leaks. Rev the truck, let it idle...make sure it will continue.
k. Replace the skid plate. Torque the bolts to 10 ft. pounds per the service manual.
l. replace the tire...torque the lugs...90 ft. pounds? You choose.
m. Remove the jack stand...lower the truck.
n. Go get some fuel.....look at this pic....NO CHECK ENGINE AND THE FUEL GAUGE WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This is a total do it your self project. Save yourself the $200 or so labor fee at the dealer. Good luck and be proud of the job well done. This is completely doable for most all of us.