Rear Drive Shaft - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+)
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Drive Shaft

I searched the forums and couldn't find an answer to my question, so here goes. I would like to replace the u-joint on my rear drive shaft, it's making noise when I'm in reverse. So I bought 1 Precision Super Strength 254 u-joint. When I remove the rear driveshaft, just unbolt it on both sides, remove, bring to the local machine shop and have them replace the u-joint on the driveshaft, bring back and re-install on truck. Question is, will I have any t-case fluid come out anywhere? Do I have to replace any gaskets? Anything else I should know? Thanks!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 11:06 PM
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if you pull the slip yolk, yes, fluid will dribble out. Not much, but have some on had to top off your t-case just in case. No seals should need to be replaced.

there is also more than enough room to get at the u-joint on the truck. If you have the tools and know how to remove the shaft, I'd say just swap the joint yourself without pulling the shaft.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 11:13 PM
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1. make sure you chock your wheels if you're removing your rear driveshaft.

2. if you jack up the rear of the truck and leave it on jackstands, not much if any fluid will leak out the rear...
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-30-2011, 11:56 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I will probably drain and replace the t-case fluid when I do this. As far as replacing the u-joint when the other side of the drive shaft is still bolted on, don't I need a special tool to remove the old u-joint and then re-install the new one?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 12:14 AM
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IMHO...stay away from the precision U-joints...one of mine failed on the front of my rig offroading and blew the entire drivetrain of my rig apart....that-Ujoint cost me a lot of money in repairs....but I owe it to it...i would not have titan swapped my rig without that catastrophic failure.






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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 12:30 AM Thread Starter
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Yikes I don't want that, what you recommend?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 12:51 AM
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spicer parts (OEM). seem to work fine for me. lol. I know there are a few threads on here that have the exact part numbers...its like a 500 something number IIRC...

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by aldo View Post
Yikes I don't want that, what you recommend?
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Rook is a well established member on this site and I am not saying he is wrong, but considering I have had to replace all 3 UJ on my ride with less than 80k miles tells me that the nissan UJ are crap.

Rook wheels his ride hard from all of the posts I have read over the past year and this is not the first time he has chimmed in on the Precision UJ not being is "go to" UJ

So, heed his warnings, but also take into consideration that Precision has long been some of the best parts made in this country.

FWIW-I have precision on all 3 of mine and they are the greasable types. I have about 5k on them at this point with no issues, but than again, I dont go to Moab or wheel my ride as hard as Rook and others do.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 10:47 AM
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-31-2011, 10:55 AM
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All I know is I installed the precision U-joints and three weeks later my entire drive train was wrecked....I wheeled hard on the OEM u-joints and never had a problem...all through Moab. All U-joints have a life span that is finite. they are a wear item. IMHO 80k for a ujoint on a 4500 lb rig is pretty good...plus we have no idea how the rig was used....or how hard ti was driven. It's all relative.

now, this being said. I don't care how well respected I am or I am not on this board...I am here to tell you the fact is.... that I blew that U-joint apart wheeling not too challenging of an obstacle (I had done the same obstacle at least twice before with the OEM parts). the proof is in the pudding (pictures) Ujoints should NEVER shear where mine did that day...

the choice is up to you. all other parts of theirs I used in my old XJ were great. and they have a solid reputation. the bottom line is...greasable U-joints are not nearly as strong as ungreasable ones due to that grease channel (you can see it as the hole in the sheared portion in the pic)

and apparently others agree with me that Precision is less than adequate...
Subtle vibrations at highway speeds?

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Last edited by Rook; 03-31-2011 at 11:54 AM.
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